Kwann, recently named to Condé Nast Traveler’s 2025 Hot List of the world’s best new restaurants, takes its name from the Thai word for “smoke” — fitting for a place where live-fire cooking is the focus. The restaurant is the creation of Chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget of Michelin-starred Nawa, pastry chef Saki Hoshino, and Nawa head chef Jirapat “Sept” Praphotjanaporn. Their menu blends influences from Thai street food and refined dining, using traditional techniques alongside modern equipment. The open kitchen, set to one side of the dining room, allows guests to watch the chefs work over the flames without the heat reaching the tables. We visited to try the Chef’s Choice Tasting Menu — a mix of inventive dishes and more — and it did not disappoint.
Here’s a look at the 5-course tasting menu.
First up was their signature welcome drink — a smoky mix of rosella juice, mango sticky rice green tea, passion fruit, and pineapple-ginger foam.
We started off with some small bites or as the menu calls ‘Snack’.
The Crab Beignet was a standout — a light, airy puff with smoky crab, served in a mild curry sauce and etel leaf. Honestly, one wasn’t enough; we could’ve eaten a whole plate. Next came Kwann’s smoked shrimp and pork sausage, paired with a rich caramelized plum sauce that balanced sweet and smoky perfectly. The final bite was Nam — grilled pineapple, tart smoked coconut, crispy fried shrimp, and a touch of caviar for a salty pop. Each bite packed a punch without trying too hard.
For the appetizer, we had lightly Smoked White Prawns served with Gaeng Som viangratte—a sour and spicy Thai soup—along with burnt orange and a broth made from smoked white prawns. The dish definitely delivered on Thai-level spiciness. It was fresh and packed with flavor, balancing the smoky notes with the sharpness of the curry and the citrus from the orange.
Why stop at one appetizer when you can have two? Our second starter on the tasting menu was Grilled Satay— marinated squid with black ink peanut sauce, chili vinaigrette, and coriander. It came with homemade brioche that was perfect for soaking up all the flavors. Simple, tasty, and made you want more.
Now the mains started coming in. First up was the Grilled Pumpkin, coated with a homemade miso glaze and a kick of chili paste. It was straightforward but packed enough punch to keep things interesting.
One of the main dishes featured smoked local fish, served with a mix of Thai herbs, viangratte, and chili paste. The smokiness of the fish was strong but didn’t overpower the dish. The herbs added freshness and a bit of brightness, while the chili paste brought a steady, warming heat. Together, the flavors created a well-rounded, punchy dish that stayed true to traditional Thai tastes.
More mains arrived next, including Geang Tepo — smoked pork neck served with morning glory and kaffir lime. The pork was tender with a clear smoky flavor, while the morning glory added a fresh, slightly crunchy contrast. The kaffir lime brought a bright, citrusy touch that balanced the richness of the meat.
We went off menu and added dry-aged Thai Wagyu topped with truffle shavings. It was a rich, tender bite that brought serious flavor to the table.
Now for the pastry chef—she knows her stuff. This dessert was one of the best I’ve had all year. I’m a big popcorn fan, so the Corn & Coconut Butter Ice Cream hit the spot. The mix of salty, sweet, and crunch, topped with meringue, really worked for me.
Now a bit about the interior.
The restaurant features a modern design with natural wood elements and sleek interiors. The open kitchen acts as the centerpiece, turning meal preparation into a show. The busy sounds from the kitchen add energy and build anticipation for the dishes ahead.
The Chef’s…
Napol ‘Joe’ Jantraget, trained in Canada, is a Bangkok chef known for blending southern Thai roots with modern flavors. He earned a second Michelin star in 2023 for NAWA and co-founded Samlor with Chef Sept and his wife Saki, who leads desserts at NAWA, Samlor, and KWANN.
Chef Saki Hoshino from Nagoya, Japan, trained in pastry and hospitality in Toronto before becoming Head Pastry Chef at Crème Brasserie. She mastered Japanese desserts and fermentation, then blended these with Thai flavors in Thailand. Recognized at the 2018 International Chef’s Summit Asia, Saki now crafts memorable desserts at Kwann.
Jirapat “Sept” Praphotjanaporn from Bangkok trained at culinary school and Michelin-star kitchens. Partnering with Chef Joe in 2020, he became R&D chef by 25. Now Head Chef at Nawa Central Thai, Sept leads innovation at Samlor and beyond.
Here’s the team in the kitchen…
I’m hungry. Where is it?
We would recommend making a reservation on their website. Keep up to date with their specials etc. by following their official Facebook page or Instagram page.
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