Verlan sits on Sukhumvit Soi 26, led by Chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget and Saki Hoshino—the same team behind places like Samlor and the Michelin-starred 80/20. They’ve now turned their attention to something more casual: a neo-bistro that blends sharp cooking with local ingredients.
The space is an old wooden house turned glass box. It’s roomy, the bar is long, and the vibe lands somewhere between a laid-back dinner spot and someone’s well-designed living room. It’s not loud, but not dead quiet either. Basically, a good place to actually hear your dinner conversation.
This isn’t the kind of place that tries too hard. It’s straightforward, delicious, and something you’d happily come back to—again and again. A great spot to meet up with friends or bring the family when you want good food without the fuss.
Let me walk you through some of what we ate.
First up were a couple of small bites. The seasonal item: Blue crab on toast with yeast mayo, “Khajorn capers,” toasted brie — a clever, creamy mouthful. Then came the Caviar Set: N25 caviar, seaweed madeleine, coconut crème fraîche. These two are must-tries — the flavours are bold, balanced, and the perfect way to kick off any dinner.
Now, this isn’t one of those 1980s shrimp cocktails lounging in a martini glass, half-submerged in ketchup and regret. No, my dear reader, this is Verlan’s version: shrimp in a seaweed-wasabi sauce with enough bite to wake up your palate and your sense of style. I’ll say this just once: eat it.
Vegetable crudités served with a caramelized chili and salted fish dip — bold, savoury, and just the right amount of funk. On the side, a spicy pomegranate mix adds a fresh, tangy contrast that cuts through the richness. A smart, punchy pairing that goes well beyond your average veggie plate.
Who doesn’t appreciate a good Onion soup? This version hits all the right notes: deeply caramelized onions in a rich, slow-cooked broth, topped with gruyère and finished with a generous sprinkle of grated beef bushi. It’s exactly what it should be — comforting, thick, intensely flavourful, and just cheesy enough to feel like a proper hug in a bowl.
Homemade pasta will almost always outshine its dry pasta peers — and dish proves it. The Parsley Pappardelle is tender with just the right bite, its vibrant green hue hinting at the fresh herbs worked into the dough. Paired with sweet, briny clams and a glossy garlic butter sauce, it’s simple, confident, and incredibly satisfying. Nothing fancy — just really well done.
A solid go-to: Steak frites, served with umami jus and yeast aioli. The steak is cooked just right, the fries are properly crunchy — no soggy shortcuts here. But the standout? That aioli. Made with nutritional yeast, it’s unexpectedly bold, packed with savoury depth, and basically dares you to keep dipping fry after fry until the plate’s empty.
Oh duck, you glorious bird — thank you, and thanks to the chef, for turning out a dish that gets it just right. Roasted duck breast, cooked to a tender medium-rare, with a crisp edge that holds its own. It’s paired with charred leek for a bit of smokiness, and finished with a garcinia orange sauce that’s sharp, slightly bitter, and cuts through the richness like it knows exactly what it’s doing. No fuss, no frills — just a smart, well-balanced plate.
Saki Hoshino is an exceptionally skilled pastry chef whose work stands out for its precision and balance. Be sure to try a few of her desserts before finishing your meal — they are not to be missed. Highlights include the Apple Tarte Tatin with vanilla-lemon Chantilly, a perfectly moist Sticky Toffee Cake, and her distinctive Miso Ice Cream served with toasted pecans and caramel sauce. Each dessert reflects her refined technique and thoughtful use of flavor.
Now, onto something truly important — the grape juice. Yes, the wine. Verlan boasts an impressive wine room with a strong selection of Champagnes and French wines. There were far too many to sample in one sitting, but I went with the Domaine Gallety Cuvée Gallety Rouge from the Rhône Valley — a perfect match for every dish we had. If you visit, make sure to take the time to explore the wine room.
Now, a bit about the place itself.
Verlan Bangkok strikes a careful balance between modern elegance and organic charm. Set within a beautifully restored 80-year-old wooden house, the space has been transformed into a sleek two-story glass venue. By day, natural light streams through tall windows, while by night, the lush greenery surrounding the restaurant glows softly, creating a tranquil, urban oasis.
Inside, the atmosphere is both spacious and intimate. A striking marble bar anchors the room, and subtle design touches nod to the building’s past. The open-plan layout ensures a sense of flow and openness without sacrificing comfort or privacy.
The Chef.
Chef Napol “Joe” Jantraget is one of Thailand’s most celebrated culinary talents, known for his innovative approach to Thai cuisine that bridges tradition with modern technique. Deeply rooted in local ingredients and sustainability, his cooking reflects a passion for storytelling through food.
Together with his wife, Chef Saki Hoshino, a talented pastry chef originally from Japan, the duo has become a formidable force in Bangkok’s dining scene. While Chef Joe focuses on bold, progressive flavors inspired by Thai heritage, Chef Saki brings finesse and creativity to the dessert course, often incorporating seasonal Thai produce into her delicate creations.
I’m hungry. Where is it?
We would recommend making a reservation. Book Here Their menu changes regularly, but you can keep up to date with their specials by following their official Facebook page or Instagram page.
Address: 76 Soi Sukhumvit 26, Khlong Tan, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110
I want to hear from you!
Should you decide to experience Verlan, I’d love to hear your feedback in the comment section below, or via message on either the Chow Traveller Facebook page or Chow Traveller Instagram (and feel free to like/follow these pages if you want to learn about more about the foodie gems I find). However you choose to reach out, I’d love to hear from you!
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